So I started just buying a lot the old stuff. Then I would just go on eBay, or shop in consignment stores, I would find the old stuff for cheaper. I started with Raf, and I was buying the recent stuff at the time. **How did you acquire your collection? ** He also ran through why he loves each of the pieces. We talked to Casavant about how his archives came to be, his rental business, and these iconic labels at large. So, whether it's passion or borerline-obsession, his investments are starting to pay off. And if you're shooting a fashion story or music video and want some old school Raf or Helmut in it, David's your guy, but getting his gear on camera will cost you. Celebrities even pay him to borrow pieces just for stunting in the streets. As a stylist, his collection has proved a valuable resource. Though Casavant's archives are deep, he doesn't keep them all to himself. Though he left his own brand in 2005, today you can see his influence in collections from Public School to Kanye West's Adidas Originals collaboration. As for Helmut Lang, his '80s and '90s collections defined the extreme minimalist trend of the times. Each reconstructed pocket carries details which resemble the very nature of where the fabric originated.David Casavant, 24, claims to own close to 1000 pieces of vintage Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. How and why can a person love clothes from specific eras of specific brands so much? Well, if you're a little light on your fashion history, let's start with a brief primer on the Belgian-born Raf: He attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium, founded his eponymous label in 1995, became the creative director of Dior in 2012, and essentially fathered what we now know as fashion's obsession with youth culture and streetwear. Pockets are lined in multiple materials with absent or replaced hardware. Vest was made from military cargo pants, jackets and utility pockets rearranged and placed on top of each other and protruding from the sides.
The artisanal men's "010" line has been in a long hiatus until very recently reintroduced by now creative director Galliano. Due to the nature of the artisanal line's creative process, each "010" or "0" item has mild variations. Reproductions and reinterpretations have been made over the years, even after Margiela's departure from his own label, but the original artisanal garments are hand sewn in low quantities by the Margiela team, at the atelier, with vintage or hand selected fabrics. Margiela's eponymous line, "010" and "0", are artisanal garments which paved a basis for the foundations of Margiela's core designs. Maison Martin Margiela FW01 Artisanal Reconstructed Military Vest. The soldiers close in under a yellow moonĨ/10 condition.
The hoodies, tees and sweaters were massive and overwhelming, patched with what looks like a collage of Raf's personal visual displays, with the help of peter de potter, of his inspirations and nostalgia. Graphics throughout this season were labeled with cryptic lyrics from The Cure, graphics inspired by the 1982 film "Poltergeist", and even a few references to experimental musician John Cage. FW05 was one of the last displays of such meaning, departing from such endeavors and focusing more so on modernist, sleek cuts inspired by euro subcultures.
Raf's display to his connection to music is undoubtedly the primer to his most compelling garments. Despite the runway being absent of the highly sought after graphics for this season, Simons looked to revisit his personal milestones in his past for the two part FW2005 collection. Raf Simons FW05 "History of My World" All Shadows Hoodie. Moto details include adjustable leather waist straps, padded details, zippered pockets and wrist zips. Unique to this season however, a handful of these designs were printed on garments with biker details which were indicative by padded knees, shoulders and zips on limb ends to tuck boots or gloves under. Pants, hoodies, tees and shirts sported graphics of said mascots and logos. The season featured nostalgic motifs from middle America varsity sports and school mascots. The varsity theme is one of the few themes that stays unique to only two years: 20. The 'Man' line typically reintroduces multiple themes and designs from Watanabe's time capsule which borrows or reissues from older seasons - Most common being the "poem" designs which were released in 2001, 2005, 2008/09 and recently.
Many forget that Junya Watanabe's "Man" line is unlike his more focused self titled women's which roots original ideas from season to season. Junya Watanabe SS06 "Arkansas Football" Varsity Moto Jacket in Red.
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